For Tonmoyee Mokaddes, the desire for unique self-expression led her to launch her own label in 2011, a brand she naturally named Tonmoyee. What began as a personal quest to create distinctive clothing has blossomed into a label known for its unconventional and playful designs. Despite not having a formal fashion background, Tonmoyee’s passion and artistic vision have shaped a brand that celebrates individuality. From its early days with a small team to its current standing, the brand has remained committed to its core values of artistry and originality. We sat down with Tonmoyee Mokaddes to discuss her inspirations, her design philosophy, and the journey of building Tonmoyee.
Your foray into fashion is quite interesting, starting without a formal background and evolving from designing for yourself. Looking back, how has this unconventional beginning shaped your design philosophy and the identity of your brand, Tonmoyee?
It’s true, and funny to think back now, but I didn’t come from a fashion background at all. I think not having that formal training actually gave me a sense of freedom. I wasn’t bound by rules or expectations of what should be done. I was tired of wearing the same things as everyone else; I wanted something different that expressed my own style.
My first store was on the second floor of the house I used to live in with my family, so it was all very close to home, both literally and figuratively. In those early days, it was a very modest operation. I had just one tailor and one karchupi master, and we were working on a very intimate scale. My first collection was quite simple, featuring about 7-8 designs. It was a mix of day-to-day kamiz, casual and pret pieces that were easy to wear, and then a touch of something special with a couple of muslin sarees. It was all very hands-on, which allowed me to really focus on creating pieces that spoke to me, that were unique and expressed a sense of individuality. That desire for distinctiveness is at the heart of the Tonmoyee brand; we strive to offer pieces that stand out and tell a story.
Your designs often feel very personal. Where do you draw your creative energy from, and how would you describe your design aesthetic?
My creative process often starts with a story or a memory; it’s very narrative-driven. I find inspiration in everyday life – in the things I see, the experiences I have, the emotions I feel. I am consistently drawn to designs that are striking and a bit unorthodox. For example, when I was launching my new store, I designed an entire collection born from the idea of mishti mukh – beginning something auspicious with sweets. Translating these ideas involves a lot of experimentation and a willingness to push boundaries. I played with ice cream motifs, incorporating them into the designs in a fun and playful way. It was very well-received. I still have a few pieces left from that collection, which is a great example of its enduring appeal. It’s about finding that balance between something familiar and something unexpected.
Tonmoyee has not only endured but thrived, with periods of scaling and consistent activity. What does that longevity and loyalty mean to you, and what has sustained its spirit?
The brand has been consistently active, even when I moved to America in 2013 and through challenging times like the pandemic. Even if I wasn’t doing large-scale collections, I was still designing clothes for myself and my family. My karigars have been with me throughout this journey, which is incredible. I also have some very loyal clients who have stayed with me from the beginning. It’s really thanks to them that I was able to relaunch the brand on a larger scale around 2019, and this subsequently led to the opening of a new store in 2021. It felt like a new chapter building on everything that had come before.
Beyond the garments themselves, what is the core of your creative expression? What message do you hope your designs convey to those who wear them?
Even though I studied business, I truly feel like an artist at heart. My business background provides the structure, but I don’t feel complete if I am not creating something, like painting. Now, I have kind of swapped paint for clothes and canvas for people. I see it as creating wearable art with every collection. I hope my designs resonate with people on an emotional level, that they feel a connection to the story behind the piece, and most importantly, I want them to feel empowered to express their own individuality when they wear Tonmoyee. My hope for the future is for the brand to remain authentic, to continue striving to create unique pieces, and to avoid becoming just another cookie-cutter brand.