Photographs from Zaeem Jamal
What does ‘luxury’ stand for? If you talk about it in its true meaning – it is something that is rare, exclusive, and has some level of craftsmanship that strides for an element of perfection. In one word, it’s a symbol of uniqueness. Luxury doesn’t necessarily mean something ‘bling’ People put the price on the shine first rather than the outcome. If something is rare because it is handcrafted, a labour of love, then additionally because of the amount of effort put into it, it might become expensive. The price tag does not represent the shimmery shine but the perfection of the craft.
Masterful craftsmanship is important to create a stunning gown. But somehow your collection seems to have a deeper connect with the customers. What’s the story behind creating a single Zaeem Jamal piece?
When it came to establishing the Zaeem Jamal brand, the philosophy was to revive quintessential luxury, combining heritage and traditional values with modern innovation and excellence. A key aesthetic is intricately weaving the most exquisite hand embroidered craftsmanship into carefully sourced fine satins, chiffons and crepe silks. We have garnered a reputation of rejecting the highest quantity of fabrics in Delhi (where we source our pure silks) because we inspect every inch meticulously and if there is even the slightest defect, we send it back to the supplier. This is all part of the essence of creating something that is the best it can be, to be worn by the lady who dares to be the best she can be. From the way each piece is designed to the manner in which it is crafted, every team member involved is working with passion and they are doing it with great care, skilfully paying attention to the last detail. As a result, the end creation embodies a fabulous feeling. A mother’s cooking may not be the same as a restaurant chef, but there is always an extra special feeling experienced when eating her food because she put special love and attention into it. It can be exactly the same with fashion or anything that is crafted for that matter – if one creates it with passion, love and care then it becomes ‘extraordinary.’ This is an essential part of our brand ethos.
How do you merge your themes of the contemporary and the timeless designs?
Every season is a journey of inspiration through global heritage, legends, myths and mysteries, to remind, re-ignite and inspire the very best in us all. Our ancestors were wise and it could be said perhaps that they were especially connected to the great secrets of life. Recent explorations in themes have included Celtic motifs and powerful archetypes of Camelot, to the marvels of the Mayans and the treasures and secret codes of the Ancient Egyptians. Delving in, researching history, learning about beliefs by visiting archaeological sites, analysing elements & spaces in temples and palaces and walking the landscapes all helps to connect the dots and put the pieces together. Taking the example of our Ancient Egyptian inspired collection – modern architects and engineers still cannot figure out how the Great Pyramids were created so it was fascinating for me to discover that one of the tools used in their architecture was the ‘Golden ratio’. Not only was it used to perfect the proportions in buildings but fashion as well, so we have also brought it to life in our collections. Travelling along the mystical monuments along the River Nile, one can see the precise detail in regal ancient dresses in the larger than life carvings of Queens and goddesses. The colour palette reveals itself on hand painted murals adorning the better preserved monuments underground. To bring this all into the contemporary world we use modern production techniques whilst understanding and incorporating the style preferences of leading women today.
How important is it for you as a designer to implement what your customer desires in their outfit? How difficult is it to meet their expectations?
Our focus is that each customer should be delighted and our satisfaction only comes when she feels fantastic in her desired creation. In a world filled with reproductions, repetitions and globalisation which has reduced the individuality of much of the world of fashion, it becomes harder and harder for a lady who wishes to find authentic ways to express her unique individual style. But at Zaeem Jamal we help her find ‘the’ dress – to feel beautiful and feminine, reflecting her vision and preferences, with the ability in our bespoke service to choose any colour, any customisation, and specify every detail. Silks can be dyed to any palette, embroideries and silhouettes sketched and brought to life through care, design and craftsmanship for all who dare to think outside the box and dare to dream, and finally to bring those dreams into reality. We are happy to source any special additional requirements whether it may be a special crystal gemstone to set in the embroidery or accessories such as flowing capes, gem embellished shoes or handmade bags. As a customer of ours, you are limited only by your own imagination – and even there, our design team shall assist in the creation of your perfect piece.
Give us a deeper insight on your brand’s signature lining ‘Flower of Life’ pattern which is present in each of your bags.
The ‘Flower of Life’ is a beautiful geometric pattern which has been found in old mosques, churches and other places around the world from more ancient times. There is a belief that it represents ‘regeneration’ which is why I believe it is a lovely element to have, enveloping the treasured possessions that a lady keeps inside her handbag. Whether you believes in that specific symbolism or not, simply look at the way geometric patterns on wallpapers, carvings or in a panel at a mosque or a temple – there is something very calming and balancing about them.
The Bangladeshi market for luxury line of clothing and accessories is too few and far in between. Why not introduce Zaeem Jamal to the customers here?
Whilst we may not have a physical retail presence here, we already have a select clientele from Bangladesh who make purchases from our flagship store on the Kings Road in Chelsea, London. Our gowns, clutches, shoes and pashminas have proved to be especially popular. Because of the unlimited potential in our bespoke service with its array of embroidery styles and exclusive crystal work, we have had made several private commissions for fusion styles such as long embellished jackets, as well as ethnic bridal wear including spectacular sarees and lehengas for brides in South Asia. If there is a bride from Bangladesh looking for something completely unique and unusual, crafted in our very special way, it would be a pleasure to customise something exquisite for her. Recently we have also opened our online boutique which means any customer from Bangladesh will be able to place an order online and have it couriered here to the location of her choice.
What kind of trends do you think will enrich the Bangladeshi market now regarding couture and customized exquisite ensembles?
I have been visiting Dhaka for over fifteen years and it is definitely visible in society that there has been a great evolution in fashion. People are experimenting more; they are wearing different silhouettes and a variety of styles. Travelling globally has been increasing over the last decade which means people have been able to bring in and share different ideas. The expanse of technology and social media has also made fashion trends and design more accessible, in fact directly to our doorsteps. This will continue to play a part in sparking more variety and curiosity. From my perspective it is also extremely positive to see the variety of shops that have opened up in Dhaka especially over the last year – this is a great beginning for a relatively young country. To have made such a difference in such a short time is a good sign of the things to come and when you see some of the innovative ideas in terms of display and design in new retail openings here, it’s a sign that other South Asian neighbours need to watch out as talented young designers and entrepreneurs from Bangladesh begin to step into the regional limelight. I do hope that as they embark upon this journey, young designers here look to their own rich national heritage and help to support and foster local skilled craftsmanship from hand embroidery through to handloom fabrics.