A deep dive into the world of jewellery
As the saying goes, “Diamonds are a girl’s best friend” and there are very few women who are not appealed by a nice, glittering diamond set in gold. However, with numerous options in the market, it can get quite tricky to choose the perfect pieces.
Jewellery collection has been well documented for hundreds of years, from kings and queens draping themselves in massive, glittering pieces to high-profile companies like Tiffany and Co. Harry Winston, and Cartier spending thousands if not millions of dollars to acquire the finest gems and the purest metals.
Most importantly, be patient, as collecting jewellery is an expensive hobby and timeless pieces and stones are rare and difficult to find, especially in today’s era of only buying trendy objects.
When it comes to beginning any sort of collecting, educating oneself is a good start and Understanding Jewellery by David Bennett and Daniela Mascetti is a good option. Additionally, taking online courses, visiting museum exhibitions, or attending previews at auction houses is also another way to boost your knowledge. The next step is to think about what you, as a collector, will love.
Many people will focus collections around their passion, whether coloured gemstones, diamonds, or a period such as the 1960s. Others choose to diversify to combat the volatility of trends and by making sure that they have inside connections such as fellow collectors, a vintage dealer, or a specialist at an auction house.
Most importantly, be patient, as collecting jewellery is an expensive hobby and timeless pieces and stones are rare and difficult to find, especially in today’s era of only buying trendy objects.
How do you define rare Jewellery?
Jewellery that is vintage, high-quality, in good condition, and signed by the manufacturer fits this description. However, if someone wants to acquire contemporary jewellery then rarity is crucial as they are mostly signed by the manufacturer and are of distinguished provenance i.e., worn by someone famous. The price of pieces like this typically does not depreciate but instead increases due to their rarity.
What stones should you consider investing in?
Diamonds reign supreme as investments, followed by the ‘Big Three’- Emeralds, Rubies, and Sapphires with a special emphasis being given to Colombian Emeralds, Burmese Rubies, and Kashmiri Sapphires for their unmatched colours due to the rich mineral deposits in the geographical location. Additionally, when investing in diamonds, most experts agree that coloured diamonds are more valuable due to their rarity or unique hues with the most coveted diamonds being those that have either pink or blue hues.
Additionally, when collecting and by extension investing in fine jewellery another key aspect to remember is the design of the piece itself. When jewellery auctions occur three names always stand out and they are; BVLGARI, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. These names come up because of distinctive designs, impeccable craftsmanship, and one-of-a-kind status, not the stones being used.
Each brand has its golden age, BVLGARI’s La Dolce Vita period in the 1960s when pieces were exploding with colour and smooth cabochon gemstones, Van Cleef & Arpels is most known for its art deco period as well as its pieces from the 60s and 70s. Cartier’s art deco pieces from the 1920s and ’30s are among the most iconic from the house, including the legendary Tutti Frutti which featured leaves and berries of carved emerald, ruby, and sapphire.
Diamonds reign supreme as investments, followed by the ‘Big Three’- Emeralds, Rubies, and Sapphires with a special emphasis being given to Colombian Emeralds, Burmese Rubies, and Kashmiri Sapphires for their unmatched colours due to the rich mineral deposits in the geographical location.
Another way to invest in jewellery is to find exquisite designers whose pieces are commanding high prices and have avid collectors. The three names at the top of everyone’s list of the best contemporary brands are JAR or Joel Arthur Rosenthal, Hemmerle, and Taffin whose pieces are defined by their rarity and craftsmanship.
Jewellery, of course, can be used not only as an investment but also as wearable art. Cindy Chao, for instance, creates incredible feather brooches for her Black Label Masterpiece collection that have an obscene number of glittering jewels. Similarly, Feng. J, Glenn Spiro, Emmanuel Tarpin, and others craft pieces that are more like wearable art than Jewellery.
When it comes to acquiring pieces from newer designers who don’t have a proven track record at auction, you have to trust yourself and your eye. Acquiring an early piece from an up-and-coming designer is like discovering a diamond in the rough. However, if a piece is one-of-a-kind, features top-quality gemstones, and has beautiful craftsmanship, you’re off to a great start.