FASHION STATEMENT

IN A CONVERSATION, NAWSHIN KHAIR, CREATIVE AND MANAGING DIRECTOR AT ARANYA, SPEAKS CANDIDLY ABOUT THE ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACTS OF FAST FASHION AND HOW THE BRAND IS WORKING TO DEVELOP A GREEN VALUE CHAIN IN BANGLADESH’S FASHION INDUSTRY.

 

 

WHY ARE SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES IN FASHION SO CRUCIAL FOR OUR FUTURE?
We are all aware of the impacts of the global fashion industry on our environment. Fast fashion, especially, is wreaking havoc on our ecosystem. The impacts of the fashion industry in terms of pollution, water usage, carbon emissions, human rights, and gender inequality are increasing, so more than ever, the need for a shift to sustainable fashion is imperative. The current model of overproduction and overconsumption is harmful to the environment and people are working in it for poverty-level wages. Innovation and transparency will be the critical drivers to shaping a thriving fashion industry. Positive change is more urgent than ever if we are to tackle climate change and create a more equitable future for all.
Simply put, sustainability means meeting the needs of the present without jeopardising the needs of future generations. The concept of sustainability has evolved, and it is now commonly regarded as the foundation of three issues – society, environment, and economy. In other words, it is considered to be a way of creating value ‘for People, the Planet, and Profit.’

 

WE HAVE BEEN THE KEY INITIATORS OF THE RESURGENCE OF NATURAL DYES AND TRADITIONAL HANDLOOM. THESE CONVENTIONAL FORMS OF PRODUCTION USE MINIMAL ENERGY AND LEAVE A NEGLIGIBLE AMOUNT OF CARBON FOOTPRINT.

 

HOW HAS ARANYA BEEN ABLE TO ESTABLISH THE COMMERCIAL VIABILITY OF SUSTAINABLE FASHION OVER THE YEARS?
Since the 1980s we have been working towards safeguarding the environment through our natural dye practices. A research by Aranya’s founder (Ruby Ghuznavi), funded by the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO), helped us find 30 colourfast dyes grown in Bangladesh. Since then, it has become our core strength in promoting slow fashion and fair trade. Our textiles are made with handloom, and fibres are often hand-spun; our business’s ‘handmade’ nature is the key to promoting slow fashion. Aranya’s business model is integrated to address the needs of artisans, closing material loops offering a better standard of living for the people and offering eco-friendly products to our conscious consumers.
We have been steadfast in transferring our knowledge and skills through the World Crafts Council and World Fair Trade organisation. We have also seen steady demand for our products worldwide.
Aranya’s aim has always been to develop a green value chain within the fashion and craft sector. We have been working relentlessly towards commercialising the process of natural dyes. Our efforts to conserve heritage crafts such as nakshi kantha, jamdani and other artisanal creations resulted in establishing a premium fashion and home products brand, having an ecosystem of 1500 rural artisans across 16 districts, many of whom are women.

 

 

 

IN WHAT WAYS DOES THE BRAND’S INNOVATION IN SUSTAINABILITY HELP OUR ENVIRONMENT?
A sustainable impact has two sides – people, and the planet. Aranya’s objectives of revival and preservation of craft techniques ensure working towards these missions. We have been the key initiators of the resurgence of natural dyes and traditional handloom. These conventional forms of production use minimal energy and leave a negligible amount of carbon footprint. Our ethos is slow fashion – upholding traditions as we work with handloom textiles, handmade wax-resistant dye and other handmade artisanal products. We work towards ethical sourcing of organic, eco-friendly fibres, fabrics and materials. We use non-toxic dyes and ensure our products are safe and friendly for humans and the earth. We already use responsibly sourced indigo and recycled waste from other industries to make many of our dyes. We also source fabrics made from recycled cotton/silk yarns.
We are in the process of making a green factory that will utilise rainwater harvesting, renewable energy, and a waste management system where we will purify water through a natural process.

At this moment, we are focused on developing strategies that will help to facilitate:
● Source of sustainable or certified materials/ regenerative materials
● Governance and certifications
● Adapting tools to measure environmental and social impacts that are universally accepted
● Contributing to net-zero carbon and adapting to an innovative solution for water usage
● Design collaboration

 

ARANYA HAS ALSO BEEN FACILITATING SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT ACROSS RURAL BANGLADESH. HOW HAS THE BRAND BEEN ABLE TO ACHIEVE THAT?
We have been working with craft communities and promoting their practices through the Fairtrade framework for over three decades. However, one of the primary impediments to sustainable development for the crafts sector is that it is largely considered an informal sector. Aranya is working diligently to bring transparency and bring people working in the sector under the umbrella of financial inclusion. We are encouraging digital payments and strategising community-building programs for our artisans. It includes capacity building programs, working on innovation and introducing clean production practices.
Our main goal is to create an environmentally sustainable business model focusing on building an equitable and inclusive supply chain. The focus is on the well-being of marginalised producers in Bangladesh, with a motive to trade to create and maintain socio-economic viability in Bangladesh. Aranya has been paying fair wages and fair prices to all producers. There is an open audit system through WFTO (World Fair Trade Organisation) peer visits which supports this. Aranya has dedicated products and designs from marginalised communities where workers’ adequate income and educational needs are ensured. This, in turn, ensures a sustainable lifestyle for the producers and artisans.

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE GENERAL CONSUMER MOTIVATION TOWARDS THE SEGMENT? WHAT CAN BE DONE TO FURTHER PROMOTE SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES IN THE INDUSTRY?
The global consumer base is becoming increasingly aware of the environmental impacts of the fashion industry in aggregate. Consumers expect the industry to address issues related to production, such as extensive water usage, toxic chemicals and garments accumulating in landfills, and the social cost. As a result, brands worldwide are trying to incorporate sustainable practices to address the growing concerns.
The picture is not so different in Bangladesh; our people are increasingly worried about the environmental impacts of fast fashion and are leaning toward the brands that care about the environment. There are numerous ways local brands can make their production more sustainable.
Implementing circularity will offer an opportunity to evaluate and improve current business models and provide a unique opportunity for local brands to create a close relationship with consumers. Perhaps, one of the most important levers that the fashion industry can pull to reduce its environmental impact is closed-loop recycling. This system is now starting to be rolled out at scale, promising to limit the extractive production of virgin raw materials and decrease textile waste.
I believe Bangladesh can benefit from having a comprehensive policy that allows local brands to tap into the possibilities of recycling the materials disposed of by the garments industry. The local fashion industry will benefit from getting formal access to opportunities through the large-scale collection and sorting processes from the RMG sector.

 

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Website : www.aranya.com.bd