S. M. SAJJAD HOSSAIN SHARES HIS EXPERIENCE OF VISITING GEOFFREY BAWA’S PICTURESQUE ESTATE IN LUNUGANGA, SRI LANKA.
GEOFFREY BAWA WAS BORN IN COLOMBO ON 23 JULY 1919 TO A WEALTHY SRI LANKAN FAMILY. AT JUST 37 YEARS OLD, HE BECAME ONE OF THE MOST RENOWNED 20TH-CENTURY SRI LANKAN ARCHITECTS. THE NAME, GEOFFREY BAWA IS SYNONYMOUS WITH SRI LANKAN ARCHITECTURAL SCENE. HIS PROLIFIC CREATIONS FOR THE SUSTAINABLE ESTABLISHMENT OF MODERN ARCHITECTURE IN TROPICAL COUNTRIES ARE SPREAD ALL OVER SRI LANKA. HIS OEUVRE INCLUDES HOTELS, HOUSES, SCHOOLS AND UNIVERSITIES, FACTORIES, OFFICES, NUMEROUS PUBLIC BUILDINGS AS WELL AS THE NEW SRI LANKAN PARLIAMENT.
Lunuganga Estate
In 1947, Geoffrey Bawa bought a six-hectare estate on a rubber plantation under British rule that was once used as a cinnamon estate during Dutch rule. The estate is on a peaceful land in the town of Benthada, surrounded by Lake Dedua, where Geoffrey Bawa spent the meaningful 50 years of his life. Bawa called it his inspirational home. He constantly improved, changed and transformed different parts of this land by incorporating the sweetness of his mind. Lunuganga is the culmination of Bawa’s decades of work. Visitors can stay in the main bungalow, gatehouse bungalow or the Red Garden bungalow by hiring a room. The whole house is filled with rare patterns, installations, trees and eye-catching collectables. Eco-tourism lovers from Europe, America and Australia come here to pay their respects. The property is a wonderful collection of gifts and contributions from his well-wishers from all over the world.
THE NAME, GEOFFREY BAWA IS SYNONYMOUS WITH SRI LANKAN ARCHITECTURAL SCENE. HIS PROLIFIC CREATIONS FOR THE SUSTAINABLE ESTABLISHMENT OF MODERN ARCHITECTURE IN TROPICAL COUNTRIES ARE SPREAD ALL OVER SRI LANKA
Guided Tours
The moment I saw the mahogany tree at the entrance of the estate, I realised how valuable and noble everything would be there. Our tour group first visited the work station of Bawa. The floor drew my attention – Bawa had painted it with his favourite colour scheme and it was truly appealing. The intricately decorated furniture, the old ceiling fan, the eye-catching paintings and collectables, the high-ceiling, low-ceiling combination, the arch made of jackfruit wood, the natural surroundings – Bawa’s architectural design and choice of decor tied the place together.
Red Garden
No doubt the Red Garden gets its name from the red colour of its soil. Many of Bawa’s eclectic collectables were spread across various locations throughout the garden; strategically placed to draw attention to them and also serve a purpose. A bell in one corner of the Red Garden would ring right before Bawa’s lunch. He would dine in that corner on a concrete table with four iron chairs. Bawa used to spend time there, looking at the butterfly-shaped pond and the natural environment of the garden. I felt fortunate to also experience that view and spent some time with my group in that corner.
Prolific Creativity
As I watched the layout of the estate from the lower elevation of the Butterfly Pond, the timeless aspect of the estate became more evident. The sundial, the sculpted leopard, the old windmill, the rare purple lotus, Bawa’s favourite flower tree, ‘Kathalichapa’, the lush green back lawn, the beauty of the branches of an old blackberry tree, the sunset on Dedua Lake, the story of balsa fruit and porcupine – all Geoffrey Bawa’s whimsical creativity – seen, heard and enjoyed to the fullest. No person could ask for more.
Hidden Road
Geoffrey Bawa was considerate of the locals and built a hidden connecting road in the southern Cinnamon Valley for them to pass through. The road cuts through the valley to the east and west, with shrubs along its entire length. When viewed from afar, it looks like a jungle. This token of consideration is one of the many examples of Bawa’s generosity to the common people.
BAWA’S CREATIVITY AND VISION ARE EVIDENT IN HIS DESIGN CHOICE TO HAVE THE MAIN GATE OF THE BUNGALOW AT THE CONFLUENCE OF THE NORTHERN DEDUA LAKE AND THE SOUTHERN WATER BODY OF CINNAMON VALLEY.
Bawa’s Resting Place
Bawa’s creativity and vision are evident in his design choice to have the main gate of the bungalow at the confluence of the northern Dedua Lake and the southern water body of Cinnamon Valley. The Bawa Trust commemorates the greatness of Geoffrey Bawa with a simple stone on his tomb at the foot of the Cinnamon Valley. Bawa rests among nature, which could not be more appropriate – him being its biggest disciple.
Fond Adieu
Geoffrey Bawa has left an estate so aesthetic and personal, that I felt his presence throughout my visit. There is a lot more creativity hidden within its details that cannot be explored in a few hours. So, as I now reflect on my wondrous experience, I yearn to visit the Lunuganga again.
The author is a Life Member of Bangladesh Travel Writers Association. He visited Sri Lanka at the invitation of the Sri Lanka Tourism Promotion Bureau from 24 February to 5 March 2022.