Ashfaque Zaman watches Mehruz Munir as he tailors the perfect wedding suit from scratch
As Mehruz directs his client, Tanjinur Rahman, and I towards the sitting area he orders an Americano with one spoon of sugar. He explains that he needs a boost of caffeine before he unveils the creation he has earnestly designed and brought to life.
“I wanted something that was not your traditional black and white tuxedo,” narrows down Tanjinur. He was looking for something unique but also understated.
Enter Mehruz
A visionary in men’s fashion, he tries to ease his clients by establishing familiarity, which was easy in this case. “We started talking about our time in Australia, our favourite places to eat and some of the memories we’ve made,” a conversation that had allowed Mehruz to better understand Tanjinur’s vision for his reception.
Tanjinur had heard of Zurhem when he was in Australia from friends who had told him that the craftsmanship and attention to detail was unsurpassed to anything that one would find in Dhaka. “After speaking to him, I realised that he was the designer for me. He somehow understood exactly what I wanted. Even I didn’t know what I was looking for beyond the fact that it would not be traditional.”
Tanjinur found it refreshing that a designer would ask him the specifications of the design he had in mind. This allowed him to realise that Mehruz was willing to cooperate wholeheartedly.
Because of meticulous artisans like Mehruz, Tanjinur understood that the designer is just as invested in making him look distinguishable. “I completely understand the significance of a groom’s look. It is a matter of complimenting one another. All eyes will also be on him during each of the occasion and this is one of the biggest days of his life.”
Their vision for the Nehru jacket that Mehruz had suggested started with a sketch at the mastermind’s studio. “Mehruz explained that he starts by sketching the idea that he has in mind in accordance to the request of the client. I kind of let him take the wheel knowing that he would make an impeccable look,” chuckled Tanjinur. They brainstormed a two-piece suit that would balance the best of western fashion with a traditional element.
“The Nehru jacket is a style that is both timeless and sophisticated. He wanted black because the other occasion commanded colour. We decided to go with a jet-black fabric to elevate beyond the norm. I incorporated a few details for embellishment,” elaborates Mehruz. The couturier and his client prefer minimalist approach to fashion. “Tanjinur is a young man so I was able to push the boundaries with him and go for a sportier look.”
As he takes the final sip of his coffee, we walk to the fitting room where the exquisite jacket hangs on the mannequin. As we approach the design, Mehruz tells us about his take on the traditional bib shirt worn with the tuxedo. “I wanted him to keep in touch with the subtle theme but also take into account that he might want to take the jacket off at some point. Last but not least, Mehruz incorporated the pleats in order for the shirt to be a statement piece in itself.
Dissecting the Design
Jacket- The coat is made of jet-black Ermenegildo Zegna worsted wool, a specialty of the Italian luxury fashion house. The jacket has the standard two pockets with the addition of a big-ticket pocket, allowing for a white silk pocket square. To add embellishment, the jacket’s buttons are rose gold with Swarovski stones; Mehruz recommends a gold pocket watch that inside the right pocket.
Pants- Also made with the same jet-black fabric, the pants are a slim fit. They are tailored as high-rise to create length visibility.
Bib Shirt- The bib shirt is made from Giza House’s premium cotton to provide comfort and elegance under the jacket. It has pleated front panels to stand out on its own. But the mandarin collar of the shirt complements the collar of the suit.